The great thing about winter recreation in the Bitterroot Mountains is access. If you can see it, you can ski it. WILL MOSS/Ravalli Republic

Range provides plenty of runs for skiers, snowboarders

By WILL MOSS
of the Ravalli Republic

HAMILTON – A wise old rock climber once told me that, when it comes to getting outdoors in the Bitterroot Mountains, it's "probably not very safe to claim that you were the first to do anything."

I think about that sometimes, when I'm out in the snow, high above the creeks and canyons that define the Bitterroot Range's unique and puzzlingly logical array.

What it means to me is that there is a definitive and near tangible allure to this dramatic landscape; a stalwart value so innate that it has drawn seekers of adventure, exploration and solitude since long before I or even that old climber first laid eyes on it.

As a snowboarder, I was originally drawn to the Bitterroot's shadow by an appreciation for the rural and easy-going nature of the local ski hill – not to mention the quality and quantity of snow.

For years, those long, cold days on the slopes and fire-lit evenings with good friends and strong, local beer gave to me most all that I wanted from these old hills.

Eventually, however, there came a time when I found myself staring deep into the range's westward canyons, far back into the heart of the Bitterroots where massive jagged sentinels of rock, ice and snow beckoned me to explore, dared even, as I know they have so many others.

That feeling, nagging and ever-present yet exciting and wholly addictive, can be a difficult one to shake.
Not that you'd want to, I suppose.

It's a feeling that has driven me to great lengths over the last few years, from sacrificing my limited time and very limited wealth to jeopardizing my safety and a relationship or two.

With that said, I've found more value and self-revelation through my experiences in these mountains than in any school or church, and I hope that the unpredictable weave of converging fibers that comprises my path through life allows me to continue this affair.

The great thing about winter recreation in the Bitterroots is the access. To a degree, if you can see it, you can ski it.

The long and mostly gentle western rise of the range's 30-or-so prominent ridge lines from the valley floor provides for fast and easy approaches to an almost unquantifiable selection of bowls, couloirs, broad faces and rolling aprons.

Once you begin to understand how it all works, the possibilities can almost be overwhelming; to really "ski the Bitterroots" would take a lifetime or more.
Luckily, there are a few well-known descents that can allow you to put a feather in your cap and feel like you've gotten a well-rounded perspective on backcountry skiing and snowboarding in these mountains. As always, be sure that you have the proper equipment, knowledge and preparation to safely make it back to the valley floor before you head for the hills.

West Fork
Comprising a large portion of the southern end of the range, the signature peaks and drainages that feed the West Fork of the Bitterroot River provide dramatic and challenging ski descents that rival some of the country's more well-known backcountry destinations.

One of the area's highlights is the dramatic Trapper Peak complex, the namesake of which stands as the Bitterroot's highest summit at 10,157 feet.
For all its spire-like prominence, access to the area is relatively simple and non-technical, depending on the chosen route. The simplest path to the main peak is the Trapper Peak Trail which starts from

Forest Road 5630A and steadily climbs 3,800 feet in about four miles, delivering you to the long saddle that drops east from the main peak.

From this point, skiers have the option of descending the long ridgeline back toward the trailhead, or tackling any of a number of technical couloirs that fall (quite steeply) into the Trapper Creek drainage to the north. The latter advanced routes require skiers to either climb back toward the saddle or exit through the Trapper Creek drainage.

Skiers can also approach the complex via the Baker Lake Trail, which meanders through a chain of three lakes ending in the Gem Lake basin.

Winter access to these trailheads is limited by snowpacked roads, though committed skiers with the right equipment can make it in and out in a day. The area provides excellent spring access with some north-facing areas holding skiable snowpack through the summer.

Central Bitterroots
The swath of peaks and canyons that stretch to the west between Darby and Hamilton offers a nearly unquantifiable selection of dramatic ascents and descents to any skier willing to make a day (or more) of it.

West of Darby lies Tin Cup Canyon, a narrow drainage that ends at Tin Cup Lake about 11 miles from the trailhead. Skiers will find numerous descents along the route, including the Como Peaks and Kerlee Lake bench, which lie along the canyon's north wall, as well as a series of undulating mini-drainages to the south and east of Tin Cup Lake itself.

To the north lies Como Lake and the Rock Creek and Little Rock Creek drainages, either of which make great day excursions for skiers looking to get out into a dramatic landscape that offers an overwhelming selection of bowls, aprons and other skiable terrain from mellow, low-angle powder fields to the ultra-technical east face of El Capitan.

Farther down the valley is Lost Horse Canyon, long a favored destination of snowmobilers looking to get way back into the range via the 15-mile road to Twin Lakes near the Idaho border. Grab a ride on a friend's sled and take your pick of fresh lines that descend from the western canyon's north wall.

As you head farther north toward Hamilton, the ridgelines of the Bitterroots begin ending in broad faces that slope eastward down to the valley floor creating for easy, direct ascents and excellent, sustained descents with little approach. Foremost among these is the eastern slope of 9,100-foot Ward Mountain, which lies just southwest of Hamilton and is accessed from the Roaring Lion Creek trailhead.

Due west of Hamilton lies Downing Mountain and the iconic avalanche path that runs from its false peak. With stable snow conditions, this 2,000-foot-plus chute can provide world-class powder turns in a half-day excursion. Skiers looking for a weekend getaway that's close to town should check out the Downing Mountain Backcountry Snowsports Lodge, which sits at about 5,500-feet, near the chute's terminus.

Northern Bitterroots
From Hamilton northward, the Bitterroot's eastern exposures fall into a repetitive pattern of faces and canyons. Pick a face from Mill to Gash or Little St. Joseph, and start climbing. Or choose a canyon like Blodgett, Bear, Kootenai or Sweeney, follow the creek west and pick almost any of the miniature drainages that extend to the north or south. All offer sublime half-day or full-day trips with countless options for great skiing.

West of Stevensville lies iconic St. Mary Peak at just over 9,300 feet. From the peak, a saddle slings low to the southeast sheltering a north-facing bowl. Access to this ridge is easy and quick (depending on how far you can make it up the road to the trailhead in the winter). Climbing west, up the saddle toward the peak, will reveal a number of great short descents into the bowl and a notch rising from a small lake provides a quick climb back to the saddle. This is another great spot for spring skiing.

At the northern end of the Bitterroot Range lies Lolo Peak – one of the only Bitterroot peaks visible from Missoula (though most of the valley actually sees the false north peak).

Lolo Peak has long been a favorite destination for Missoulians looking to get out on a quick day in the backcountry. Primary access to the peak area can be found by taking U.S. Highway 12 west from

Lolo and turning south on Mormon Peak Road. From the parking lot, skiers can climb the north wall of Carlton Ridge and then descend down the other side into the Carlton Lake basin. The lake lies at the foot of the 9,100-foot peak at about 7,800 feet and provides a great base for making a few laps.

Given the right equipment, knowledge and conditions, the possibilities for skiing the Bitterroot backcountry are basically endless. As always, it's best to set out with a partner who knows the area you intend to explore, and it's crucial that all backcountry skiers outfit themselves with the proper safety equipment, including an avalanche beacon, probe and shovel, and the knowledge to use them properly and to recognize safe and unsafe snow conditions.

Reporter Will Moss can be reached at 363-3300 or at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .